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Diesel

Diesel released the second collection of its Red Tag Project line with Y/Project designer Glenn Martens – the Belgian designer follows on from the brand’s first drop with Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver. The innovative presentation referenced the works of Dutch photographer Hans Eijkelboom who also shot the lookbook.

An industrial six-layered stage displayed all 6 looks in the collection. Within each layer, 4 models, male and female, showcased the different ways the same garments could be styled and worn. Inspiration for the collection comes from Diesel’s own Go With the Flaw slogan, spinning the notion of ’flaws’ on their head, so that the garments themselves are ’flawed’ – for instance, jackets feature waists many times smaller than normal and need to be worn open, or trousers with voluminous waists that must be tied together. 

 

 

Represent 

British label Represent took things closer to home for its SS19 premier in Milan, with a collection and show inspired by the 90s and Brit Pop Culture.  

Brothers George and Mike Heaton, the designers of the brand, reflected on their Manchester upbringing and how fashion and music came together to define that 90s generation. Sportswear dominated but with an elegant twist – the sort of looks you’d imagine Blur and Oasis rocking out to during their 90s dominance. 

Contemporary touches came in the form of tie-dying techniques and bleaching – added splashes of neons, checks and acid washes were also a nod to the 90s theme: Brit Pop meets Nirvana-grunge. In a bid to move away from being ’just’ a streetwear brand, the brothers also experimented with tailoring and technical outerwear, with full suits and shirting pieces. 



Plein Sport 

Plein Sport returned to Milan for its SS19 tennis-inspired collection show as part of Men’s Fashion Week. In the short 18 months since its inception, Plein Sport (an offshoot of the Philipp Plein brand) has grown immensely with over 40 standalone stores opening by the end of the year. 

The co-ed show transported the audience to a Beverley Hills Tennis Club with a full-size grass court taking centre stage, surrounded by palm trees – and the quintessential California Girl, Paris Hilton, took to the runway too.  

Looks referenced tennis greats from McEnroe to Borg with preppy looks in green, white and navy coming in technical fabrics to provide the qualities needed for both sport and aesthetic appeal. Menswear featured block colour tracksuits, polos, shorts, and chinos complimented with retro-feel headbands, wristbands, and visors. Game, set and match. 

 


Dsquared2

Brothers Dean and Dan Caten looked to the Wild West last season, but made military the fun and bright theme for their SS19 Dsquared2 show.

The urban warrior was explored but given a retro, athletic twist with full tracksuits in relaxed fits, and a 90s vibe with geometric shapes and dashes of neon. Classic military greens and camo fabrics dominated but, instead of blending in, were designed to stand out with bold interpretations. The chunky sporty trainer also appeared throughout the 48-look co-ed collection.

 

 

Frankie Morello

Frankie Morello took us on a cosmic adventure with its space-themed collection for SS19. Opening the show was a full spaceman suit, helmet included, which was a striking image of what was to follow.

 The co-ed collection featured models in ice-coloured contact lenses, wearing a palette of metallic and glittering fabrics in silver and blues – these provided some of the most eye-catching looks. As the runway progressed, looks became more wearable but maintained the cosmic vibe with the addition of prints and neon patterns.

Highlights included a bold, orange denim jacket and shorts combo, and a fluorescent PVC see-through jacket with black lining detail.

 


Canali 

Italian luxury brand Canali presented its first line under recently appointed Collection Designer, Hyun-Wook Lee. The collection, entitled Lui (or Him in English) further explored the brand’s rich heritage in fine tailoring but in a fresh palette that ranged from pastel pinks to blues and greys.  

The presentation took place at Milan’s Museum of Science and Technology, split into 4 rooms: Equilibrium, Dynamism, Steadiness, and Inspiration. Each room presented a different side of the collection with Equilibrium exploring tranquillity, security, and comfort with garments – fusing together formal and casual, in a palette of browns and blues.

 


DAKS 

With its 125th anniversary looming, DAKS created a SS19 filled with life and celebration. Although showing in Milan, the British brand’s show and collection transported guests to an English garden, with earthy spring palettes of pink, green and orange. In a nod to its over 100-year history, the ‘Anniversary Check’, a new fresh take on the brand’s signature pattern, was present in many fabrics – a running motif throughout. 

The collection was uplifting and happy, and finished off with a comprehensive selection of accessories, including bags, footwear and slightly 70s inspired scarfs and tinted eyewear; and of course, the oversized floppy hat. 


 


Marcelo Burlon: County of Milan 

Bold shapes and neon were featured in Marcelo Burlon’s ’retro-futurism’ inspired collection for SS19. The designer had a little help from Steven Spielberg, with the Director’s 1977 sci-fi epic Close Encounters of the Third Kind heavily referenced throughout, with its poster adorning t-shirts and ponchos.

Hazard warnings and glassy PVC also featured some partners – with skinny sunglasses in collaboration with Linda Farrow, and co-ed models walking down the runway to a Bjork soundtrack.  

Looks ranged from wearable, oversized neon shirting, layered with black and dark outerwear – to the more experimental, including oversized patent gloves. The show also proved to be one of the most diverse and inclusive of the season, with a multi-ethnic cast that also featured older models and children. 

 


Palm Angels 

Designer Francesco Ragazzi’s love for American culture continued into SS19, this time swapping skate parks for Californian wildlife – with Yosemite National Park as the inspiration for the new Palm Angels season. Titled Recovery, the collection featured all the essentials a ’tourist’ to the park needs: safari hats, bum bags, and smartphone cases.

Also making its debut at the show was its collaboration with American sportswear brand, Under Armour – partnering-up on some utility pieces including sweatshirts, tracksuits, and t-shirts. The show itself was one of the more visually striking. Set under the Milanese sun’s striking rays, the car park setting was transformed with a white cube at its centre, which models walked around before climbing upon it to take their position.  



Stella McCartney 

After 4 years away from the Milan schedule, British designer Stella McCartney returned to showcase her upcoming women and men’s collections, with a summertime themed presentation and party. 

 The 35 looks featured both Women’s and Men’s SS19 collections, and the presentation had models in an idyllic garden setting, mingling with guests, playing skittles and ping pong, and even watching the England match which was being broadcast on site.  

Menswear had bohemian touches, but with a British attitude. With flowing silhouettes and relaxed cuts, suiting was a highlight and footwear was made from cruelty-free materials and synthetic leather. McCartney has long been an animal rights champion and this new collection shows that you can be fashion forward, but with a conscience.


Words by Cristian Burbano

Diesel Photography Credit:  Artist Hans Eijkelboom
Represent Photographer Credit:  Alessandro Garofalo
Plein Sport Photographer Credit:  Courtesy of Plein Sport
DSquared2 Photographer Credit:  Courtesy of DSquared2
Frankie Morello Photography Credit:  Courtesy of Frankie Morello
Canali Photography Credit:  Courtesy of Canali
DAKS Photography Credit:  DAKS SS19 125th Anniversary Collection
Marcelo Burlon: County of Milan Photography Credit:  Courtesy of Marcelo Burlon County of Milan
Palm Angels Photography Credit:  Courtesy of Palm Angels
Stella McCartney Photography Credit:  Courtesy of Stella McCartney

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