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1883 Magazine
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Balmain 

The King of bling meets the King of Pop as Olivier Rousteing thrilled us with a Michael Jackson inspired collection for Balmain SS19.

Staged at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Paris the venue’s gold gilding and sparkling crystal chandeliers were a sign of things to come. As with Rousteing’s Balmain there were sequins and embellishments aplenty but with now with a preppy Americana twist, with plenty of denim and varsity jackets across the 80 looks on show. The Balmain logo was reworked in graphic style to mirror Jackson’s Bad and Dangerous album fonts while leather loathers and white socks were further not so subtle nods to the late pop icon. Kendall Jenner walked the show as well as the debut of 19 year old French model and Graphic artist, Rizwane Djada. 

 

Pigalle 

In one of the most innovative shows on the schedule French brand Pigalle partnered up with Beats by Dr. Dre for a full concert experience.

The two brands collaborated for their Sound of Paris show which merged fashion and music for a brand new take on the conventional fashion show with a live performances form Grande Ville Records’ artists. A true love letter to Paris the show at the famed Salle Pleyel concert hall featured Pigalle’s full SS19 co-ed collection and two new Beats by Dr. Dre Studio3 Wireless headphones customised by Pigalle’s Stephane Ashpool to accompany the designs for the show.

 

Louis Vuitton 

In one of the most anticipated shows of the season Louis Vuitton finally unveiled its fist collection under the Creative Direction of Virgil Abloh.

When it was announced Abloh will be taking over the reins (from Kim Jones) at Vuitton from Kim Jones there was much debate as to what direction the French luxury house would turn to, and all those questions were finally put to rest.  A rainbow runway greeted guests including Rihanna, J Balvin and Kaye West, all equally intrigued as to what the Off White designer had to offer. The collection was diverse to say the least, seemingly containing multiple references within the one cohesive line.  The runway started with a collection of all white looks, from casual pieces to full on suits. Slowly it progressed to more colourful looks with green and teal looks of flowing trousers and outerwear. This shifted to bold neon pieces and again to bleach print designs and into colour block looks. Vuitton bread and butter has always been its leather goods and for SS19 Abloh had plenty in different colour ways and materials but all with the same chain details, the backpacks in various shapes were a favourite.  The show also featured the most diverse casting for a show with musicians A$AP Nast, Playboi carti, Kid Cudi and Theophilus London also cast to walk. 

 

 

WOOYOUNGMI

David Bowie’s enduring legacy in both music and fashion served as inspiration for WOOYOUNGMI’s latest designs under Creative Director Katie Chung. 

The daughter of Madame Woo, who founded the brand in 2002, had made great strides in making her own youthful stamp on the brand which she took over only last year.  Bowie’s irreverent play with gender was a visible inspiration on the runway with androgynous looking models in beautiful romantic menswear and paired with some Ziggy Stardust looking platform boots. Looks were a clash of vintage with futuristic with relaxed suits in check, pinstripe, bright white, pyjama stripe or leather worn with fine glittery knits and iridescent effect shirts. Bowie’s glam rock days are also referenced with retro-futuristic PVC in check print or nude paired with skinny cigarette jeans or leather trousers. 

 

Cerruti 1881

Parisian fashion house Cerruti’s diffusion line Cerruti 1881 presented one of the most effortlessly stylish and wearable collections’ for the SS19 season.

Known for its use of fine fabrics the brand looked to Japan as inspiration for the SS19, but rather than go for the obvious the brand opted for a more subdued take on Japan, with emphasis on the shape of the traditional kimono and Japanese fabrics. Looks were simple, incorporating lightweight fabric, synched waists and boxy sleeves  in a neutral palette of khaki, black and whites.  Shapes were flowing and elongated with a crisp white suit a personal favourite. 

 

Vive La France by MR PORTER 

British retailer MR PORTER used Paris Fashion Week to celebrate all things French with the launch of its Vive La France capsule collections. 

The capsules represent 4 different themes Savoir-Faire, Parisian Street, Nouvelle Vague and Bleu de Travail - from a selection of 14 French brands, including AMI, Officine Generale, Hartford, Maison Kitsuné, Holiday Boileau, Arpenteur, J.M. Weston, Lacoste, Armor Lux, Bleu De Chauffe, Husbands, De Bonne Facture, Maison Labiche and Le Mont Saint Michel.

The drop expands across 147 pieces with each brand showing its unique vision of French culture and style on menswear, with Maison Labiche creating some effortlessly cool embroidered plain white tees. The collection is available to shop now from mrporter.com.

 

KENZO 

KENZO once again closed the Paris schedule with a bang with its carnival like show for its co-ed SS19 collection.

Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the creative duo behind the brand, explored the themes of "Kindness, Balance, Unity and Harmony" for the latest season that perfectly blended together tailoring and sportswear. The upbeat show featured a live performance by Chicago band the Hypnotic Brass Ensemble who provided a high octane soundtrack as looks marched the runway with floral installations suspended above the audience and a neon light show adding to the rave like feel, it was all manners of celebrations in one. Menswear was bold with collarless double breasted jackets and plenty of colour blocking looks in blue, teal, yellows and even neon.  Tailoring was flowing and unstructured, veering to a more athleisure vibe while the patterned and check looks were a highlight, including a snug looking pyjama like two piece suit.

Photography
Balmain - Photography Credit:  Courtesy of Balmain
Pigalle - Photography Credit:  Courtesy of Pigalle
Louis Vuitton - Photography Credit:  Ludwig Bonnet
WOOYOUNGMI - Photography Credit:  Filippo Fior
Cerruti 1881 - Photography Credit:  Courtesy of Cerruti 1881
Vive La France by MR PORTER - Photography Credit: Courtesy of MR PORTER
Kenzo - Photography Credit:  Mohamed Khalil

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