1883 Magazine
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Trine Lindegaard’s eccentric collection encapsulates everything we love about men’s fashion. Wearable yet playful, sporty yet embellished, her MA collection caught the eye of Vauxhall Fashion Scout, and she was named one of their Ones to Watch for Spring & Summer 2012. The result was a light-hearted range of richly coloured garments inspired by rubber bands. 1883 caught up with the Danish designer over a cuppa at her London Fields studio…

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Could you introduce yourself for us?

I’m from Denmark from a little place called Odense. I came to London to do my BA at Middlesex University, then I had a little break in between and went to do my MA at the RCA where I graduated in 2010.

Has growing up in Denmark influenced your designs in any way?

I don’t think I’m that influenced by Danish fashion but there’s a big tradition for architecture and style in Denmark so I guess I’m kind of influenced by that in a way. I cut in a minimal way, for example.  A lot of people say I am typically Danish in my work.

Why did you study fashion? Is it something you’d always planned on doing?

I started quite early. It’s nothing I ever planned. Basically when I was about 16 there was this project in Denmark called ‘free youth education’ where you could put your own education together. I didn’t know what I wanted to do, but I knew I wanted to do something creative. I thought about becoming a chef so I did a cookery course. It gives you the chance to do full time education in different things. I did a fashion foundation course in Denmark and then went to Milan for a year and it kind of just happened. It was only when I decided to do menswear that I really got into it.

Why did you choose menswear? Would you ever consider moving into womenswear?

I think if I was doing womenswear I’d be designing for myself which can become a bit boring. I think I just started making clothes for my boyfriend! I would really like to do unisex but I’m scared that I’ll lose my male customers if I do!

What essentials do you think men should have in their wardrobes?

Coloured socks! And a nice, basic coat. 

What was the inspiration behind your MA collection?

It was very much about geeky people, men that collect stuff. One guy who lived above me used to collect car magazines in his loft.

Do you think you’ve kept that sort of aesthetic in your most recent collection?

Yeah, definitely. In my graduate collection, the silhouettes were simple but everything was quite decorated and I would say I’m still doing that.

Can you tell us about your SS12 collection?

Basically it’s just rubber bands! It started out with me wanting to continue doing a lot of embellishment by using new materials that I haven’t used in the past. I started out with a lot of everyday objects that you don’t really pay attention to and used them for embroidery. I ended up dying and manipulating rubber bands and that’s turned into the main thing. I’ve really narrowed it down this time, really focused on one idea.

Can you describe the design making process?

I cut them up to size and tie them into bundles. A lot of them are dyed and toned. I’ve been doing it at home as I didn’t have a stove in my studio and my whole flat is covered in dye! All my boyfriend’s white shirts are covered in red finger marks!! Then we dry them and have to use this silicone spray to sew them on.

Do you design with someone in mind?

No not really. At the RCA we were really encouraged to have a guy in mind but I just always find that difficult. Sometimes my boyfriend influences me quite a bit as he ends up being my model. He will only wear the more simple pieces so I guess I compromise and end up going a bit safer on some things.

Is wearability something that’s important to you?

I’ve always struggled with that. I’ve always wanted to make clothes that people would wear. At the RCA we were encouraged to go over the top and be creative and I think it’s only now that I’ve learnt that it’s important to have some showpieces that are quite over the top that are not for selling and then have some basics. For example with my graduate collection, I had some interested buyers for the knits but I couldn’t reproduce them because it was all hand done.

Could you tell us about your affiliation with Vauxhall Fashion Scout?

I applied and I got it! They’re really lovely people. I really wanted to have a show and not just an exhibition and I can’t afford to do my own so Ones To Watch has been great.

Can you describe the preparation that goes into a catwalk show?

It’s non-stop! I’m here everyday until midnight. Vauxhall have sponsors on board, so they help with all the practical things to do with the show.

Which designers do you admire?

I like a lot of Italian menswear, especially its use of colour and embellishment. Prada, Marni and Raf Simons. And a lot of the young London designers. London menswear has changed so much in the last 5 years. The market has definitely developed; the people who contact me are always after the most mad pieces that you think people would never wear!

Does your personal style influence your designs?

I think it does it works both ways around. Whatever I’m working on, I’ll start wearing that sort of style and sometimes it’s the other way round.

What do you love/hate about the industry?

I’m in a positive place and I’m happy with everything but I’m not very good at selling myself and networking.

What are you doing next?

I’m working with designer Elisabeth Buecher and we’re doing these t-shirts as a sideline. They’re going into Magma and Tate Modern in time for Christmas. It’s been a great project for me to do on the side.

What are your top 3 things to do in London?

I love going down to Hackney marches and going for a run down the canal or spending a day at the lido (now I sound really sporty which I’m not!) and going out for food.

Essentials?

Coffee, watching rubbish stuff on iPlayer when I’m at the studio working late and Danish liquorish!

For more, check out www.trinelindegaard.com

Words By Alexandra Rhodes

Photography By Rebecca Jane Callaby


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